Nicola Macdonald, PR Director of the Independent Hotel Show London, reflects on her recent visit to Edinburgh, where she explored three distinct luxury hotels defining the city's evolving hospitality landscape. 

It was a bright and blustery day when I arrived in Edinburgh for a whirlwind tour of three exceptional hotels making waves in the Scottish capital: Fingal, The Balmoral, and The Bonham. 

Although I know Edinburgh well from years of visiting family and friends in my student days, my previous stays have been closer to the hostel end of the hospitality spectrum than the stunning properties I visited on this trip. It was fantastic to see the city through the lens of these luxury customer experiences and to hear the enthusiasm from everyone I met about the future of the city, 

There was an undeniable energy in the air, perhaps from the approach of Halloween or simply Edinburgh’s own unique magic, and every hotelier I met spoke passionately about the city’s transformation. Edinburgh is experiencing rapid growth, not only in tourism and hospitality but across every facet of urban life. The city saw over £170 million in hotel transactions occurring in 2023 , marking a 132% increase from the previous year, and the the city's hospitality market consistently outperforms national averages.

Colliers’ annual UK Hotel Market Index (UKHMI) awarded Edinburgh top position once again this year, due to its strong performance in both occupancy and average daily room rate (ADR) during 2023, as well as its impressive RevPAR (revenue per available room) growth since 2019, making it a highly sought-after market for investment.

The much-discussed Transient Visitor Levy is set to take effect in 2026, requiring visitors to pay an additional percentage of the price of their room, and the iconic Jenners department store has closed its doors—a loss arguably comparable to the closure of Harrods or Liberty in London. Jenners was more than a shopping destination; it was an emblem of Edinburgh’s heritage, with its grand architecture and warm, traditional ambiance cherished by generations of locals and tourists alike. Plans are in place to repurpose this beloved building into a boutique hotel, restaurant, bar, and retail space, courtesy of David Chipperfield Architects and Danish retail magnate Anders Holch Povlsen. 

Celebrating the unique history of Fingal 

My first visit was to Fingal, a unique ‘boatel’ that began its life as a luxury hotel in 2019. Originally a working ship delivering supplies to Scotland’s remote lighthouses, Fingal has been lovingly transformed, with nods to its maritime past evident throughout. The hotel is operated by the same team behind the Royal Yacht Britannia, one of Edinburgh's top attractions. 

During my visit, I spoke with Casey Rust, Marketing Director, and Franck Bruyère, Director of Hospitality. They shared how Fingal’s design honours its heritage, featuring a glass walkway over the original, diesel-scented engine room as a reminder of its working past. The hotel’s five-star experience is complemented by the Lighthouse Restaurant & Bar, which was undergoing renovations to expand its capacity and better serve its growing clientele. 

Sustainability is a core value at Fingal, which holds Green Key accreditation and employs a dedicated Environmental Manager. It was inspiring to see a luxury property and a leadership team so deeply committed to environmental responsibility—a priority that resonated strongly in our conversation. 

The Balmoral Hotel: An icon of Scottish hospitality 

My next stop was the iconic Balmoral Hotel, where I was graciously hosted for lunch by General Manager Andrew McPherson at the hotel’s Brasserie Prince. The Balmoral, one of only two Rocco Forte hotels in the UK, has been a fixture of Edinburgh’s hospitality scene since opening 1998, with rooms and suites designed by Olga Polizzi in the early 2000s.  

Overlooking Waverley Station, the hotel has welcomed numerous high-profile guests, including author J.K. Rowling, who famously completed the final Harry Potter book within its walls. Today, guests can stay in the suite named in her honour. 

The Balmoral’s reputation as an embodiment of Scottish hospitality was palpable, as was its role in Edinburgh's cultural tapestry, the building’s clocktower has been a focal point for flustered Scottish train travellers for over a century, and while the hotel in its current iteration opened in the nineties there is a huge respect and fondness for that legacy.  

Andrew and his team have cultivated an atmosphere that blends traditional luxury with contemporary flair, creating a refined yet approachable experience for both locals and international visitors to enjoy luxury cuisine, true Scottish hospitality and an impressively extensive whisky collection. 

An All Hallow’s Eve celebration of Scottish hotels 

On the evening of 31 October, I attended a special dinner at Virgin Hotels Edinburgh, hosted by Peter Walker, Chair of the Institute of Hospitality Scotland and General Manager of The Marcliffe Hotel & Spa in Aberdeen. Held in the hotel's Greyfriars event space, a former medieval church with vaulted ceilings, the setting was ideal for a grand yet intimate evening celebrating Scottish hospitality. 

One of the evening's highlights was an appearance by celebrity baker Coinneach MacLeod, whose distinctive Outer Hebridean accent and passion for traditional Scottish cookery has captivated fans around the world. Coinneach shared insights into his career and the flourishing opportunities within Scotland’s hospitality and tourism sectors, sparking conversations about the future of Scottish hospitality. 

The Bonham: embodying "relaxed luxury" 

My final stop was The Bonham, a hotel proudly described on its website as "Edinburgh’s most stylish hotel.” General Manager Douglas Campbell’s describes the hotel's sense of “relaxed luxury”, which encapsulates the experience, where classic Georgian and Victorian interiors are enriched with modern elegance. 

In 2016, The Bonham underwent a redesign, transitioning from a more contemporary aesthetic to one that embraces its historic architecture. Dark woods, intricate cornicing, and luxurious furnishings create an atmosphere of refined comfort, appealing to guests who seek a balance between sophistication and a homely sense of welcome.

A common thread throughout my stay in the city was that international visitors come to Edinburgh to experience a sense of timelessness; they aren’t looking for modernity but for a chance to soak up the city's history. The Bonham exemplifies this, with every detail reflecting Edinburgh's architectural legacy, enhanced by thoughtful touches that bring the past to life.

Whether aboard a boat with a storied maritime past, a hotel steeped in literary history, or a reimagined townhouse, each property I visited offers an authentic connection to Edinburgh and plays an exciting role in the continued growth of the city. Here, luxury isn't defined by extravagance but by meaningful experiences, genuine connections, and respect for what has come before. 

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